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Climbing

Warning - information presented here is contributed by users and has not been verified or evaluated for accuracy or safety. Route details may be incomplete; confirming information from the route author or another trusted source is recommended!
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Warning - information presented here is contributed by users and has not been verified or evaluated for accuracy or safety. Route details may be incomplete; confirming information from the route author or another trusted source is recommended!

Pearl Wall

An attractive trail-side crag along the Snooti descent route, a few minutes before the Bodhi Tree lookout (http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/content/bodhi-tree-lookout).

Pearl-white granite with 2 splitter cracks, and an incredible bolted arete face-climb. Rock quality is excellent, and the atmosphere is unique and airy, views all around, almost like an alpine crag. Well worth a visit, especially if on the way down from one of the multipitch routes on Snootli.

Approach time is 60-90 minutes from the parking lot.

Chilcotin Wall

Goldilocks Crag

Traverse the base of the Snootli crag, continuing East and up for a few minutes to an attractive wall with several crack lines. Easy toproping setups for every line via 4 sets of anchors.

A good place to learn gear climbing.

From right-to-left:

1) Jimminy Cricket - 5.9 - climb a thin crack to a junction with Frog Prince; continue up the right-hand slab to a juggy flake. Small cams and nuts, 1 bolt.
2) Frog Prince - 5.8 - climb the left-leaning finger crack to a slab finish, small cams and nuts.
3) Rapunzel - 5.10 - boulder the slab crux right off the ground, gaining an easier crack to a slab finish. Small cams and nuts.
4) Goldilocks - 5.10 - an easy crack start leads to thin climbing through unique water-groove features; easier face climbing to the top. A couple small cams with 4 bolts protecting the cruxes.
5) Tinkerbell - 5.11+ - slab to disappearing-crack to hard face climbing; fun crux face moves overcoming the slight bulge mid-route, riddled with subtle dyke features; easier slab moves to the top. 4 bolts plus a couple small pieces.
6) Captain Hook - 5.11? - hard face climbing just left of Tinkerbell. Toprope.
7) Bean Stalker - 5.11 - fun and varied climbing up a series of cracks and face features; a hard lower crux above good gear, with some finesse sequences up higher. Small cams and nuts.
8) Quasimodo - 5.11 - keep the good times going with this long trad climb! Climb the crux of Bean Stalker, then traverse left on good holds to gain a beautiful double-crack that takes you all the way to the anchors. Fun moves on decent holds.
9) Kung-fu Panda - 5.11 - fun climbing up a striking crack at the left edge (tallest part) of the wall. Short boulder problems with good rests and gear where you need it. Small cams and nuts.
10) Quetzalcoatl - 5.12? - dramatic line up the arete on the far left of the wall. Hard face climbing past 6 bolts, to larger holds in a spectacular position. 8 bolts plus a couple small cams for the mid-section.

Big rock - Ti lhkw'anaats ti t'xt tc

Big rock is a large glacially deposited boulder located on the North side of highway twenty in Tweedsmuir park. Also known as split rock following its splitting several years back, ti Lhkw'anaats ti T'xt tc has several enjoyable climbing problems.

There's a V6 problem up the south-west corner, a fun dyno move on the East side, some fun climbing up the North-east corner, going either left or right, an interesting mantle type start problem on the North-west face, and of course, there's the crack to climb up and the tree!

Snootli West Boulders - wa atl'sanks Anulhk'als

This series of boulders are on the upstream flank of Snootli Slab / Mount Noohalk (Anulhk'als). They can be reached from the skating rink parking lot: follow the trail behind to a small road, then continue on the trail immediately on the other side of the road rather than the Snootli descent trail that begins several metres to the right. Follow this trail up the hillside for ten minutes and eventually you will arrive at the boulders. At present, I've been calling the four boulders by the names of the four mountains going upvalley from Noohalk: Noohalk (or Snootli Slab), Schoolhouse, Noosatsum, and Tabletop, but I've been using their Nuxalk names: Anulhk'als (scraped wall), Snukulhikuus (with a high forehead), Nusq'alst (place of axe-stone), and Wapat (Sideways). I've added -ii to the end of each name.

The first boulder is a slabby problem, called Anulhk'alsii (scraped wall), Little Snootli slab. There are a number of fun ways to get to the top on every side, and a very good place to introduce people to slabs and footwork.

The trail splits just beyond the first boulder and goes down the hill. Just to the right of the trail is the second boulder, Snukulhikuusii, Little Schoolhouse Peak. There are again a number of ways to get up - a few different approaches from the right corner, as well as from the left. You'll need a pad for this, as there are some nasty rocks and stumps.

A minute down the trail, and down in the trees to the left is a massive boulder called Nusq'alstii - Little mount Noosatsum. Like the mountain, it is massive. You can climb up a tree on the downhill side, and top-rope the problem on the uphill side, or you can just go for it!

Another minute along the path the trail takes a sharp turn up the hill, and off to the left of the trail twenty or so yards is the final boulder, Wapatii - Little Tabletop. This is very much what it sounds like, a broad-faced boulder with a nice edge all around the top and a few nice places to put your feet. It's a mildly pumpy traverse and a good place to practice hanging with your feet!

Dalailah

A moderate 5-pitch gear climb on Snootli's west walls. Good climbing with good protection over interesting features with fine positions. Bring rack to 2", bolted belays.

Start at the far left side of the west wall, at the base of an ivory white pillar with several attractive flakes. Climb the white flake system to easier ground and belay at the base of a compact triple-corner system (5.8). Climb the columns/cracks to easier ground and belay at the beginning of a large, low-angle open-book corner (5.9). Choose from a variety of corner (more vegetation) and face cracks (cleaner, less protection) until exiting the corner left to the obvious blunt arete via a series of flakes up the left-hand wall. Follow the arete up to a belay (5.9). Continue on up and slightly left over easy ground to belay near the base of smooth-sided corner (5.6). Finish up the enjoyable and friendly corner, past a few face moves to final belay (5.9).

Descend via Bodhi tree trail: http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/content/bodhi-tree-lookout

Snootli Crag

A short crag with an easy approach; 15 min hike from the ice rink, easy toproping, good for quick sessions and beginner intros.

Lower wall:

1) 5.10c - Separation Anxiety
2) 5.11d - Butterball
3) 5.10a - Sweet Jesus
4) 5.13? - Project Hard
5) 5.12? - PSI
6) 5.9 - Cookie Monster
7) 5.11a - Houdini

Upper wall:

1) 5.10a - Petite Yosemite
2) 5.10a - Minuteman
3) 5.8 - Nukwlhan (Corner crack)
4) 5.10c - GMO
5) 5.9 - Nulhtnikta (Central pillar)

Redneck Raven

Bodhgaya

Multipitch on the far right (west) face of Snootli. 5 pitches - 5.9/5.10a/5.10d/5.10b/5.6 - Devon Girard, Rob Nelson, 2016. Mixed protection, bring many small wires and cams for pitch 3.

Climb the prominent white, crack-riddled pillar to a perfect belay ledge (5.9). Continue past 1 bolt and various cracks and flakes to the base of a long, thin seam up a sheer wall (5.10a). Climb the long seam until it shuts; continue left past 1 bolt, to another crack system, continue to belay ledge below the headwall - a long pitch (5.10d). Climb past 3 bolts and some small cam placements, traversing up and right to gain a large hanging corner; scramble right on easy ledges with a few moves to belay below final wall (5.10c). Climb easy cracks up final wall to the top (5.8).

Descend via Bodhi Tree http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/node/184

Devon Girard's picture

Saloompt Bluffs

A steep start leads to moderate hiking through old growth, rising gently to a series of viewpoints overlooking Hagensborg and the surrounding mountains.

Trail is cut and well flagged.

The ravine on the west side of the bluffs can connect the upper and lower trails, altho it is a bit steep in sections and probably not suitable for dogs.

Spirit Walker

The classic line on Snootli, directly up the main prow. Previously known as the somewhat runout Snootli Express, it has been fully retrobolted and is in fine form. 5.11, Ray Hawkes, ~1990.

Devon Girard's picture

Nuxalk Mountain Circuit

Alpine tour de force, an incredible circuit linking Nuxalk ridge and the Snootli descent trail with the Snooka lakes.

Nuxalk Mtn is more technical from the North, so climbing up from Nuxalk Ridge and descending via Snooka lakes is recommended. Technical difficulty will vary with conditions, there are a couple brief sections of 4th class scrambling between the North and South Nuxalk summits, where some parties may wish to use a rope. The descent via Snooka lakes trail involves some route-finding and can be a bit rough/bushy in places. Allow 16 hours for the complete circuit.

Devon Girard's picture

Buttercup

Multipitch on the far right (west) face of Snootli. 4 pitches - 5.8/5.10b/5.10d/5.8. Devon Girard, Dale Mcreery, 2016. Mixed protection, bring small wires for pitch 3.

Start below a large, white flake; climb past 1 bolt and discontinuous cracks to a belay ledge below a friendly crack (5.8). Climb the friendly crack, traverse right and face climb past 3 bolts into the main corner system to a small belay ledge below a thin crack (5.10b). Climb past 1 bolt into a thin seam, slowly expanding into a finger crack before disappearing; face climb up and right past 3 bolts, navigating small roof features (5.10d). Finish up friendly flakes and cracks past a small roof, then head out right past 2 bolts to belay anchors at top of the wall (5.8) - sometimes wet.

Descend via Bodhi Tree http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/node/184

Devon Girard's picture

Groove Tube

Multipitch on the Gun Range wall. Jia Condon, Alex Boileau, 2011.

Exciting and varied climbing, mostly in the mid-5.10 range. First few pitches are interesting face climbs, leading up to the unique water groove pitch. Every pitch on the route is interesting and worthwhile. Much more potential on this wall.

Mostly bolted, bring at least 23 quickdraws, and a small rack of cams (single set to 2" should be fine). Bolted stations with rap rings.

Approach via Saloompt Bluffs lower trail: http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/node/189

Devon Girard's picture

Snakes 'n Ladders

Fantastic multipitch up the western wall of Snootli's main face. Bolted rap stations, mixed protection. Jia Condon 2009.

Snootli Descent Trail

Breathtaking views up an improbable line, crisscrossing the open north-west butress of Nuxalk Mountain, up narrow ledges with a few fixed lines.

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