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Multipitch

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Silk Road

A grand adventure up the 500m Chilcotin Wall, sustained 5.10 climbing with a 5.11- crux pitch. All belays have bolted rap rings. 60m ropes will get you down, but 70m recommended for leading. 12 long pitches, almost all with some challenging sections. Runout on some easier sections. Bring full rack to 3" including small wires, with doubles or triples of small cams (Esp. Metolious #1 and #0).

Approach: Follow Saloompt Bluffs trail for about 45 minutes (approx 15 min past the lower-bluffs trail junction), then follow a flagged line directly upwards through steep timber to the base of the large wall.

Descent: Continue through alpine terrain to gain the ridge, then descend the Goat Ridge trail to rejoin the Saloompt Bluffs trail. Or, rap the route.

Pitch 1 - A hard start past a single bolt gains easier cracks, then choosing between a short gully or a runout slab, gain a small belay ledge. Currently requires a few aid moves in lower part due to vegetation. Likely 5.10+ when fully cleaned.
Pitch 2 - Climb right from the belay past a single bolt, then up through zig-zagging cracks with sections of face climbing, as you finally trend right onto the main wall of the 'Teapot' feature, to a belay below a long thin crack splitting the face. Be mindful of rope drag; a long and interesting pitch. 5.10
Pitch 3 - Face climb past bolts to gain the partially bolted thin seam. Climb the shallow crack to a crux overlap, then up the remarkable flared groove through easing difficulties to the spacious Teapot ledge. A bit runout at the top. 5.10+
Pitch 4 - Start a few meters right of the belay, and traverse left to face climbing past bolts into a shallow corner above. Continue up left past a bolt, then right through disconnected cracks to a small belay ledge. A long pitch. 5.10
Pitch 5 - Climb up edges past a bolt to hand cracks. Gain the large face via a narrow pillar; face climb past more bolts to the belay on top of a large flake. 5.10-
Pitch 6 - A delicate friction traverse leads to harder face climbing past many bolts. 5.10+
Pitch 7 - Climb the long arching corner crack to an undercling traverse, then up right to a belay stance. Keep an eye out for small gear placements in the lower section. 5.9
Pitch 8 - Face climb past several bolts, gaining a shallow corner at the base of the huge arch that leads to the black roof. Keep an eye out for small gear placements at the base of the corner. 5.10
Pitch 9 - Climb the easy but runout corner, gaining easier ground and gear, then traversing left under the looming black roof. Watch for small gear placements under the roof, underclinging or descending lower onto the slab ramp below as necessary. Turn the corner of the roof and follow steep flakes past a bolt to a steep pocketed corner. Be mindful of ropedrag around the corner. A long and dramatic pitch requiring many small cams. 5.11
Pitch 10 - Climb the long corner to a belay stance below a short headwall. 5.9
Pitch 11 - Climb the headwall past one bolt to a small pond; circle to the right of the pond to a slab ramp past 2 more bolts to a left-trending seam and belay. 5.10
Pitch 12 - Climb past several bolts to an overlap and gear; continue up the face past another bolt to the base of water-worn crack features. Climb the grooves past some gear and a bolt; overcome a bulge to easier cracks. Traverse right on a hanging slab, to the final (overhanging!) exit cracks and final belay. Be mindful of ropedrag. 5.10

Dalailah

A moderate 5-pitch gear climb on Snootli's west walls. Good climbing with good protection over interesting features with fine positions. Bring rack to 2", bolted belays.

Start at the far left side of the west wall, at the base of an ivory white pillar with several attractive flakes. Climb the white flake system to easier ground and belay at the base of a compact triple-corner system (5.8). Climb the columns/cracks to easier ground and belay at the beginning of a large, low-angle open-book corner (5.9). Choose from a variety of corner (more vegetation) and face cracks (cleaner, less protection) until exiting the corner left to the obvious blunt arete via a series of flakes up the left-hand wall. Follow the arete up to a belay (5.9). Continue on up and slightly left over easy ground to belay near the base of smooth-sided corner (5.6). Finish up the enjoyable and friendly corner, past a few face moves to final belay (5.9).

Descend via Bodhi tree trail: http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/content/bodhi-tree-lookout

Redneck Raven

Bodhgaya

Multipitch on the far right (west) face of Snootli. 5 pitches - 5.9/5.10a/5.10d/5.10b/5.6 - Devon Girard, Rob Nelson, 2016. Mixed protection, bring many small wires and cams for pitch 3.

Climb the prominent white, crack-riddled pillar to a perfect belay ledge (5.9). Continue past 1 bolt and various cracks and flakes to the base of a long, thin seam up a sheer wall (5.10a). Climb the long seam until it shuts; continue left past 1 bolt, to another crack system, continue to belay ledge below the headwall - a long pitch (5.10d). Climb past 3 bolts and some small cam placements, traversing up and right to gain a large hanging corner; scramble right on easy ledges with a few moves to belay below final wall (5.10c). Climb easy cracks up final wall to the top (5.8).

Descend via Bodhi Tree http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/node/184

Spirit Walker

The classic line on Snootli, directly up the main prow. Excellent climbing in beautiful positions, culminating in a gloriously exposed headwall. Previously known as the somewhat runout Snootli Express, it has been fully retrobolted and is in fine form. 5.11, Ray Hawkes, ~1990.

Take the Snootli approach trail, directly up past the crag, to the base of a bolted slab.

Many pitches of fantastic face climbing take you to the very top of wall. Some runouts on the easier pitches, but well protected for the cruxes. Mostly bolted. Bring 20 quickdraws and a few small and medium cams.

Descent is via rappel, or Snootli descent trail (1 rappel from top of route to gain hike-able slabs and join trail to the west - http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/content/snootli-descent-trail).

Devon Girard's picture

Buttercup

Multipitch on the far right (west) face of Snootli. 4 pitches - 5.8/5.10b/5.10d/5.8. Devon Girard, Dale Mcreery, 2016. Mixed protection, bring small wires for pitch 3.

Start below a large, white flake; climb past 1 bolt and discontinuous cracks to a belay ledge below a friendly crack (5.8). Climb the friendly crack, traverse right and face climb past 3 bolts into the main corner system to a small belay ledge below a thin crack (5.10b). Climb past 1 bolt into a thin seam, slowly expanding into a finger crack before disappearing; face climb up and right past 3 bolts, navigating small roof features (5.10d). Finish up friendly flakes and cracks past a small roof, then head out right past 2 bolts to belay anchors at top of the wall (5.8) - sometimes wet.

Descend via Bodhi Tree http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/node/184

Devon Girard's picture

Groove Tube

Multipitch on the Gun Range wall. Jia Condon, Alex Boileau, 2011.

Exciting and varied climbing, mostly in the mid-5.10 range. First few pitches are interesting face climbs, leading up to the unique water groove pitch. Every pitch on the route is interesting and worthwhile. Much more potential on this wall.

Mostly bolted, bring at least 23 quickdraws, and a small rack of cams (single set to 2" should be fine). Bolted stations with rap rings.

Approach via Saloompt Bluffs lower trail: http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/node/189

Devon Girard's picture

Snakes 'n Ladders

Fantastic multipitch up the western wall of Snootli's main face. Bolted rap stations, mixed protection. Jia Condon 2009.

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