You are here

Grassfed Goat

Description: 

5 Pitches, 5.10+. An easier alternative finish to Buttercup, sharing the first 2 pitches. Fun face and crack climbing on clean rock for the most part - last pitch is a bit vegetated, altho easy.

Mostly bolted, single rack to 2" with a couple extra 0.1-0.2 sizes is sufficient. ~15 draws.

Approach as for Buttercup. Climb first 2 pitches, yet just before the pitch 2 anchors on Buttercup, there is a new station with ring bolts below a large flake.

Pitch 3 - Climb a bolted pitch of face climbing up a blunt prow feature, to another station just left of the main corner. Run out on easier ground but bolted where you need it - 5.10b.
Pitch 4 - Start up a thin face crack past a few small gear placements to a bolt; karate-kick into the corner and merrily stem upwards towards the next roof feature. Stem delicately to gain a bolt and overcome the roof; a bit more corner work leads to a final right-exit on faceholds - 5.10d.
Pitch 5 - Grovel up the final section of low-angle corner, mining for gear as needed. Gain a series of flakes on the left side of the corner, until they are nice enough to climb out of the corner with - a few meters of great flake climbing gains the arete atop the left-hand wall, and a final bolt. Follow the arete over easy ground until the tree/moss line and final anchor - 5.8.

FA 2026 Devon Girard, Marek Svoboda, Sam McCoy.

Rap the route or join the descent trail ~30 meters up/right of final anchor.

KML placeholder