You are here

Ganesha's Game

Description: 

An exciting and varied climb up the tiered right side of the eastmost wall of the bluffs. Each pitch adds to the adventure; even the first pitch on it's own is a satisfying climb gaining a fine position. A mix of fun cracks and thin face climbing. Pitch 2 and 3 include some hard friction sections; choose a cool day or wait for afternoon shade! This is the first line on the first wall when approaching via Lower Bluffs trail.

3 Pitches: 5.9, 5.11a +1pa, 5.11b. Rap rings at every belay. 70m rope recommended for first pitch. Double 60m ropes will get you down.

Pitch 1 - Start up a thin flake on the far right of the wall, to a bolted face, and finally up a splendid hand crack to a belay stance above a small cedar tree. 65m 5.9
Pitch 2 - Continue up an easy right trending ramp, past some gear in an undercling to the first bolt. A couple hard moves lead to more thin moves, moving up and right to gain a faint arete. Climb the prow and thin ground above with difficulty to the last bolt, and use it for a short pendulum into the prominent flake. Jam the friendly flake up to a belay ledge. 60m 5.11a +1pa
Pitch 3 - The difficulties begin immediately, mantling onto the starting ledge and first bolt. Continue up through thin friction and face climbing past 10 bolts, to a faint exit crack trending left (small TCUs), past a final bolt to belay. 40m 5.11b

Gear to 2", with doubles in 0.75-1" range. 14 quickdraws at least.

Approach via Lower Bluffs trail: https://bellacoolatrails.ca/content/saloompt-bluffs

Devon Girard, Erin Nevison, Ryan Levesque, Kate McGiverney