bluffs

An exciting and varied climb up the tiered right side of the eastmost wall of the bluffs. Each pitch adds to the adventure; even the first pitch on it's own is a satisfying climb gaining a fine position. A mix of fun cracks and thin face climbing. Pitch 2 and 3 include some hard friction sections; choose a cool day or wait for afternoon shade! This is the first line on the first wall when approaching via Lower Bluffs trail.

3 Pitches: 5.9, 5.11d (or 5.11a +1pa), 5.11b. Rap rings at every belay. 70m rope recommended for first pitch. Double 60m ropes will get you down.

Pitch 1 - Start up a thin flake on the far right of the wall, to a bolted face, and finally up a splendid hand crack to a belay stance above a small cedar tree. 65m 5.9
Pitch 2 - Continue up an easy right trending ramp, past some gear in an undercling to the first bolt. A couple hard moves lead to more thin moves, moving up and right to gain a faint arete. Climb the prow and thin ground above with difficulty to the last bolt, and use it for a short pendulum into the prominent flake. Jam the friendly flake up to a belay ledge. 60m 5.11d or 5.11a +1pa
Pitch 3 - The difficulties begin immediately, mantling onto the starting ledge and first bolt. Continue up through thin friction and face climbing past 10 bolts, to a faint exit crack trending left (small TCUs), past a final bolt to belay. 40m 5.11b

Gear to 2", with doubles in 0.75-1" range. 14 quickdraws at least.

Approach via Lower Bluffs trail: https://bellacoolatrails.ca/content/saloompt-bluffs

FA Devon Girard, Erin Nevison, Ryan Levesque, Kate McGiverney
FFA Pitch 2 Cole Verrall

A three pitch all-gear route up the left edge of the broken-glass wall. 2nd pitch is a 65m tips-layback endurance challenge; clean rock, lots of pro, spicy cruxes and good rests. Bring 70m rope, and an extra 60m to get down. Bolted rap stations. Many small cams required (esp. Metolius #0 and #1 range).

Pitch 1 - 5.9 layback flake (an existing route, name unknown). A gem of a pitch, and a fun treat to start the day. Clambour up a blocky corner to the base of a left trending flake; layback the flake to the tree island, then continue through the brush to the Pitch 2 anchors at the bottom of the next wall. Gear to 3".
Pitch 2 - 5.11 (?) tips layback. Follow the steepening corner crack for ~15m until it branches right into a thin crack feature splitting the blank headwall. Overcome the steep crux to a good rest, then continue through another 30-40m of tips laybacking. A physically and mentally demanding pitch. Bring many small cams and some nuts.
Pitch 3 - 5.10+ layback funkjam. Climb steeply through overlapping flakes to the top of a small pedestal and an old stunted pine tree. Mantle up into the groove above, and continue up a mix of flakes and cracks to easier ground. Enjoy the final face moves to gain the upper slab and anchors.