You are here

bluffs

Warning - information presented here is contributed by users and has not been verified or evaluated for accuracy or safety. Use caution and proceed at your own risk!
KML placeholder

Ganesha's Game

An exciting and varied climb up the tiered right side of the eastmost wall of the bluffs. Each pitch adds to the adventure; even the first pitch on it's own is a satisfying climb gaining a fine position. A mix of fun cracks and thin face climbing. Pitch 2 and 3 include some hard friction sections; choose a cool day or wait for afternoon shade! This is the first line on the first wall when approaching via Lower Bluffs trail.

3 Pitches: 5.9, 5.11a +1pa, 5.11b. Rap rings at every belay. 70m rope recommended for first pitch. Double 60m ropes will get you down.

Pitch 1 - Start up a thin flake on the far right of the wall, to a bolted face, and finally up a splendid hand crack to a belay stance above a small cedar tree. 65m 5.9
Pitch 2 - Continue up an easy right trending ramp, past some gear in an undercling to the first bolt. A couple hard moves lead to more thin moves, moving up and right to gain a faint arete. Climb the prow and thin ground above with difficulty to the last bolt, and use it for a short pendulum into the prominent flake. Jam the friendly flake up to a belay ledge. 60m 5.11a +1pa
Pitch 3 - The difficulties begin immediately, mantling onto the starting ledge and first bolt. Continue up through thin friction and face climbing past 10 bolts, to a faint exit crack trending left (small TCUs), past a final bolt to belay. 40m 5.11b

Gear to 2", with doubles in 0.75-1" range. 14 quickdraws at least.

Approach via Lower Bluffs trail: https://bellacoolatrails.ca/content/saloompt-bluffs

Devon Girard, Erin Nevison, Ryan Levesque, Kate McGiverney

Tips Hotline

A three pitch all-gear route up the left edge of the broken-glass wall. 2nd pitch is a 65m tips-layback endurance challenge; clean rock, lots of pro, spicy cruxes and good rests. Bring 70m rope, and an extra 60m to get down. Bolted rap stations. Many small cams required (esp. Metolius #0 and #1 range).

Pitch 1 - 5.9 layback flake (an existing route, name unknown). A gem of a pitch, and a fun treat to start the day. Clambour up a blocky corner to the base of a left trending flake; layback the flake to the tree island, then continue through the brush to the Pitch 2 anchors at the bottom of the next wall. Gear to 3".
Pitch 2 - 5.11 (?) tips layback. Follow the steepening corner crack for ~15m until it branches right into a thin crack feature splitting the blank headwall. Overcome the steep crux to a good rest, then continue through another 30-40m of tips laybacking. A physically and mentally demanding pitch. Bring many small cams and some nuts.
Pitch 3 - 5.10+ layback funkjam. Climb steeply through overlapping flakes to the top of a small pedestal and an old stunted pine tree. Mantle up into the groove above, and continue up a mix of flakes and cracks to easier ground. Enjoy the final face moves to gain the upper slab and anchors.

Subscribe to RSS - bluffs