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Goat Butter

A grand voyage through the vast slabs of the Goatskin wall, the long smooth face visible from Hagensborg. All bolts, mostly easy terrain, some short 5.9 sections. 11 pitches, double 60m ropes will get you up and down.

Approach as for Enso Pool and then continue up-valley for about 1km, slowly leaving the creek behind as you angle uphill towards the still-hidden wall. A flagged line will lead right and up through open timber (between 2 slide zones; avoid the bushwacking and stick to the open timber) towards the base of the wall. The route starts directly left of a semi-permanent water feature running down the entire wall.

Follow the bolted line through gorgeous yellowish-white granite for 9 pitches to a spacious ledge near the top of the wall, where the water seep spills out from. Continue up the wall above, then trend left for an easy pitch, to the final pitch up a narrow ramp through the final little headwall guarding the top of the wall. Final anchors are ~10m from treeline, easy climbing takes you to the top and tree belay.

Runout on easy sections, protection where you need it, 2-7 bolts per pitch, 12 quickdraws will suffice if you're climbing in single pitches, double that for simul-climbing scenarios.

Walkoff is possible, flagged and mostly cut, described here. Or rap the route; rings at every station.

A friendly route up a unique wall in an extraordinary position.

2021 Grant McCartney, Devon Girard, Liam McNaughton

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