A short crag with an easy approach; 15 min hike from the ice rink, easy toproping, good for quick sessions and beginner intros. All routes require at least some gear to lead; there are no pure sport routes. Many routes are partially bolted, to complement the natural protection. All routes have bolted anchors at the top of the wall.
Lower wall:
1) 5.11 - Separation Anxiety: Start up a short pillar to avoid an often-wet crack; face-climb past a bolt to gain a pumpy flake and good gear, then overcome the bulge by reaching right. Continue up the finger crack until it pinches shut; reach for the slopey rail and good jams in a horizontal crack; a few more easy moves to the anchors. Bring at least 3 small cams (Metolious #1 or equiv) for the flake and upper crack. FA Devon Girard 2018.
2) 5.12c - Stiff Upper Lip: start as for Sweet Jesus, go right after a few moves on good holds past 2 bolts in a shallow corner feature. Get into boulder mode and pull a few hard moves on decent holds to overcome the bulge, leading to more hard moves on thin holds past several more bolts. Move right to same anchors as Separation Anxiety. FA Cole Verrall 2023.
3) 5.10c - Sweet Jesus: Possibly the best line on the crag, steep and exciting climbing up good holds and through a range of crack sizes. Face-climb to a juggy flake, past a slopey rail into a finger crack. Overcome the crux bulge into saviour hand-jams and easy slabs up to the anchors. Bring gear to 2". FA Devon Girard 2016.
3a) 5.12b - Covidian: climb the thin corner past good nut placements to a burly iron cross past a bolt, steeply up towards horizontal cracks, holds and small gear. Exit right to join Sweet Jesus. FA Cole Verrall 2023
3b) 5.12b - Branch Covidian: left-hand exit of Covidian; climb the same corner through the first crux to the horizontal crack; follow the cracks left and exit up the small stepped corner, finally veering back right past the last small gear placement, to the Sweet Jesus anchors. Small nuts and cams.
4) 5.13? - Hard: open project.
5) 5.12? - PSI: hard flared finger crack, 2 bolts at start. Open project.
6) 5.10a - Cookie Monster: A fun face and flake climb disguised as a mossy groove; climbs much better than it looks. A delicate start past a bolt gains a juggy groove; layback and stem up to a slopey rail and a big move to a huge jug. Mantle up and continue up the face crack and past a bolt to the final slab moves and anchor. Gear to 2". FA Devon Girard 2018.
7) 5.11a - Houdini: Steep and fun face climbing past 4 bolts, gaining a shallow corner/box feature. Enter and exit the box with difficulty, continuing up a crack and slab to anchors. Bring a pair of cams (2" and 0.5") and a small wire for the top. FA Devon Girard 2016.
8) 5.12a - Hootnanny: Start on the left of the detached pillars near Houdini, trend right on easy ground to a fun throw on good holds, to the crux bulge. Boulder through thin moves up a shallow corner to a slab finish. All bolts. FA Cole Verral.
9) 10d - Unnamed. FA Cole Verral 2024.
10) 5.13a - Unnamed. FA Cole Verral 2024.
11) 10d - Crescent Moon: Climb the left-hand line past 5 bolts at the 'middle' crag, a short featured wall between the lower and upper crags. FA Issac Pulliam 2023.
Upper wall:
1) 5.10b - Little Yosemite: A short but stout fist jamming clinic up a beautiful orange corner. Cams to 4" for the bottom, and a couple smaller pieces for the top. FA Devon Girard 2016.
2) 5.10a - Minuteman: Climb the short detached pillar to a hand-sized corner crack. Overcome a small roof and continue up the crack. Anchors up towards the right. Gear to 3". FA Devon Girard 2016.
3) 5.9 - Nukwlhan (Corner crack): A fun and feature-rich corner, harder towards the top before the anchors. Gear to 2". FA Dale McCreery 2016.
4) 5.10a - GMO: An easy starting ramp leads into delicate underclinging and harder moves over a bulge. Head right to anchors. Gear to 1.5". FA Devon Girard 2016. WARNING: some gear placements have broken and leading is not currently recommended.
5) 5.9 - Nulhtnikta (Central pillar): Potentially fun climbing up a pillar-like feature. FA Dale McCreery 2016. CAUTION - very dirty and loose at top since a tree-fall event! Evaluate before climbing.
