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Pearl Wall

An attractive trail-side crag along the Snooti descent route, a few minutes before the Bodhi Tree lookout (http://www.bellacoolatrails.ca/content/bodhi-tree-lookout).

Pearl-white granite with 2 splitter cracks, and an incredible bolted arete face-climb. Rock quality is excellent, and the atmosphere is unique and airy, views all around, almost like an alpine crag. Well worth a visit, especially if on the way down from one of the multipitch routes on Snootli.

Approach time is 60-90 minutes from the parking lot.

Goldilocks Crag

Traverse the base of the Snootli crag, continuing East and up for ~10 minutes to an attractive wall with several crack lines. Easy toproping setups for every line via 4 sets of anchors.

A good place to learn gear climbing.

From right-to-left:

1) Jimminy Cricket - 5.9 - climb a thin crack to a junction with Frog Prince; continue up the right-hand slab to a juggy flake. Small cams and nuts, 1 bolt.
2) Frog Prince - 5.8 - climb the left-leaning finger crack to a slab finish, small cams and nuts.
3) Rapunzel - 5.11 - boulder the slab crux right off the ground, gaining an easier crack to a slab finish. Small cams and nuts.
4) Goldilocks - 5.10 - an easy crack start leads to thin climbing through unique water-groove features; easier face climbing to the top. A couple small cams with 4 bolts protecting the cruxes.
5) Tinkerbell - 5.11+ - slab to disappearing-crack to hard face climbing; fun crux face moves overcoming the slight bulge mid-route, riddled with subtle dyke features; easier slab moves to the top. 4 bolts plus a couple small pieces.
6) Captain Hook - 5.12? - hard face climbing just left of Tinkerbell. Toprope project.
7) Bean Stalker - 5.11+ - fun and varied climbing up a series of cracks and face features; a hard lower crux above good gear, with some finesse sequences up higher. Many small wires, small cams, and one medium piece.
8) Quasimodo - 5.11 - keep the good times going with this long and varied climb! Climb the crux of Bean Stalker, then traverse left on good holds to gain a beautiful double-crack that takes you all the way to the anchors. Fun moves on decent holds. Bring a range of small cams and some wires.
9) Kung-fu Panda - 5.11 - exciting and sustained climbing up a striking crack at the left edge (tallest part) of the wall. Short boulder problems with good rests and gear where you need it. Gear to 2" - and remember small wires for the top.
10) Quetzalcoatl - 5.12? - dramatic line up the arete on the far left of the wall. Hard face climbing past 6 bolts, to larger holds in a spectacular position. 8 bolts plus a couple small cams for the mid-section. Open project.

Snootli Crag

A short crag with an easy approach; 15 min hike from the ice rink, easy toproping, good for quick sessions and beginner intros. All routes require at least some gear to lead; there are no pure sport routes. Many routes are partially bolted, to complement the natural protection. All routes have bolted anchors at the top of the wall.

Lower wall:

1) 5.11 - Separation Anxiety: Start up a short pillar to avoid an often-wet crack; face-climb past a bolt to gain a pumpy flake and good gear, then overcome the bulge by reaching right. Continue up the finger crack until it pinches shut; reach for the slopey rail and good jams in a horizontal crack; a few more easy moves to the anchors. Bring at least 3 small cams (Metolious #1 or equiv) for the flake and upper crack.

2) 5.12? - Stiff Upper Lip: open project.

3) 5.10c - Sweet Jesus: Possibly the best line on the crag, steep and exciting climbing up good holds and through a range of crack sizes. Face-climb to a juggy flake, past a slopey rail into a finger crack. Overcome the crux bulge into saviour hand-jams and easy slabs up to the anchors. Bring gear to 2".

4) 5.13? - Hard: open project.

5) 5.12? - PSI: hard flared finger crack, 2 bolts at start. Open project.

6) 5.10a - Cookie Monster: A fun face and flake climb disguised as a mossy groove; climbs much better than it looks. A delicate start past a bolt gains a juggy groove; layback and stem up to a slopey rail and a big move to a huge jug. Mantle up and continue up the face crack and past a bolt to the final slab moves and anchor. Gear to 2".

7) 5.11a - Houdini: Steep and fun face climbing past 4 bolts, gaining a shallow corner/box feature. Enter and exit the box with difficulty, continuing up a crack and slab to anchors. Bring a pair of cams (2" and 0.5") and a small wire for the top.

Upper wall:

1) 5.10b - Little Yosemite: A short but stout fist jamming clinic up a beautiful orange corner. Cams to 4" for the bottom, and a couple smaller pieces for the top.

2) 5.10a - Minuteman: Climb the short detached pillar to a hand-sized corner crack. Overcome a small roof and continue up the crack. Anchors up towards the right. Gear to 3".

3) 5.9 - Nukwlhan (Corner crack): A fun and feature-rich corner, harder towards the top before the anchors. Gear to 2".

4) 5.10a - GMO: An easy starting ramp leads into delicate underclinging and harder moves over a bulge. Head right to anchors. Gear to 1.5".

5) 5.9 - Nulhtnikta (Central pillar): Potentially fun climbing up a pillar-like feature. CAUTION - very dirty and loose at top since a tree-fall event! Evaluate before climbing.

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