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Gondor Calls for Aid

NOTE - this climbing area currently inaccessible, route information for reference only

A stout 6-pitch route up the far-left (West) side of the upper wall. Mostly gear, all pitches present serious difficulties up to 5.11... climbing is varied, challenging and fairly sustained. Bring rack to 2", heavy towards the small sizes... doubles at 1", triples through the 0.5" range, and many multiples of small sizes. Small wires are also important. First ascent rack is pictured below. All belays are equipped for rapping; 70M rope recommended for climbing, 60M will get you down.

Pitch 1: A unique pitch of face climbing, starting up sharp edges past 6 bolts to a dynamic move to a jug at the base of an easy crack. Continue up to a slopey horizontal traverse, left past 3 bolts to belay. A harsh start to the day. 30m, 5.11
Pitch 2: A superb pitch of laybacking and corner work. One bolt protects a shut section of the layback flake, but the rest is mostly small gear. Pumpy climbing over beautiful rock. 50m, 5.11
Pitch 3: Reach around the arete directly right of the belay, and gain the surprise hand-crack feature. Climb discontinuous cracks up the arete, mix of gear and bolts, until the angle steepens and the holds disappear; reach around right past a bolt to a delicate face traverse and thin moves up sharp edges with great exposure. Continue up the slippery arete past more bolts until the terrain eases; trend left over blocks to belay and wide ledge. 40m, 5.11
Pitch 4: Take on the obvious looming crack system directly above. Longer and more arduous than it looks. Start in a short handcrack and continue up discontinuous features until it is possible to move left into the main feature. Exciting climbing in the bottom half leads to a cruxy mid-section; easily aid through the difficulties (small wires) or attempt to free (5.12??). The upper section continues to be pumpy, although easier than the first half. 50m, 5.11 +3pa
Pitch 5: An outrageous pitch that never seems to end; it will consume your entire rack. Start up the corner crack directly above the belay; a thin start leads to easy fingers. Pull over a bulge, and move left into a short face crack. As the crack disappears, face climb past 2 bolts, using a 3rd bolt for aid (stand on it) or attempt to free (5.12??). Climb left through wild glacier polished features, into yet another corner crack arching right. Small gear and wild moves lead to a single bolt protecting a delicate mantle on a very polished dish. Stand up and follow the looming steep but juggy hand-cracks to belay. 60m, 5.11 +1pa
Pitch 6: Unique and fun face climbing up diorite knobs; climb past 2 bolts from the belay, then delicately move right to some thin moves through the line of weakness up the slab, to a small alcove and another bolt. Climb up positive knobs through a steep bulge, past another bolt, to easier ground. Find the next set of bolts, pull some thin slab moves, climb the final rib to final anchors and belay ledge. Challenging right until the final moves! 40m, 5.11

WARNING, this is an involved approach! Scout river conditions at put-in and pull-out points beforehand!

Approach REQUIRES CANOE CROSSING; trail is unmarked; launch canoe as able, drift downstream (see image below) to avoid private property, land on the North bank and find your way East to the lower wall, then scramble up to the base of the Eastern part of the main upper wall, to gain the broad timber ledge separating upper and lower walls; follow the base of the wall West to beginning of the route, on a distinct ledge with 2 large Douglas Fir. (See image below)

For descent, rap the route and reverse the approach. When back in the canoe, continue drifting downstream to a reasonable pullout like Walker Island.

FA 2022 - Devon Girard, Joe Moric, Erin Nevison, Liam McNaughton

Goat Circuit (4 Mile ridge to Goat ridge via Goat peak)

An alpine ridge linkup including Goat/Latin peak, starting and ending at Saloompt Bluffs trailhead. Can be done as a multi-day, enjoying many exquisite campsites and side-trips, or a single long day. Trails are cut and flagged through the timber to gain each ridge, and mostly easy travel along the granite ridges in between. Lots of tarns along the ridges, yet no running water on the entirety of 4 Mile ridge (between Enso pool and the green meadows in the 4 Mile/Goat saddle). Plentiful seeps on both sides of Goat peak.

Start up either 4 Mile ridge ( or Goat Ridge ( and finish down the other.

~32km distance
~2600m total elevation gain

A wild walk in the sky!

Hammer Lake, Ape Lake

This trail route leads into the heart of the Coast Mountain wilderness through dense high elevation forest to more open sub-alpine parkland and then onto lushly flowered alpine meadows that lead to imposing jagged peaks. The trail starts off through a subalpine forest of Engelmann Spruce, Mountain Hemlock and Subalpine Fir where huckleberries are plentiful in season. The trail can be quite wet at certain times of the year or during/after prolonged wet weather. There is a large section of boardwalk closer to the lakes where the trail opens up into subalpine meadows. The views of the surrounding mountains are impressive. Pearl Peak with its glacier plastered on the side can be seen beyond the meadows and lakes.

An alpine viewpoint is the final destination with amazing views of Iroquos Ridge and its glacier ice fall over the Noeick River. South-east is the route to Ape Lake and the peaks of the Monarch Icefield\, including the looming pyramid of Mt. Jacobsen. Beyond the viewpoint the route to Ape Lake requires a map and compass and should only be attempted by experienced\, well prepared hikers. There is no flagged trail yet.

Clayton Crags - Daddyland and Roadside

Not far past the Harbor up the FSR is some great granite with single pitch sport and traditional lines. At the top of the first big hill is a large parking area. There are 2 crags within a short approach.

DADDY LAND, take a short spur road to the left after large parking area (can also drive this and park at end of spur) follow flags into old growth and trend right on scratched in trail. Approach 5-10mins.
Possible to access for toprope with caution.

Climbs from left to right:

The Cookie Jar, 5.10b, sport, 8 bolts. Start with the crux followed by easier face/slab climbing above.
The Beer fridge, 5.6, Trad
Bad Dad, 5.10b sport, 7 bolts. Get your slab on.
Dads on Crack, 5.6, Trad

ROADSIDE SLAB, about 0.2km past parking area is the roadside slab. Not accessible for toprope.

Slab Left, 5.10b, sport, 9 bolts. Recently retro bolted roof to avoid single cam placement.
Slab Right, 5.10b, sport, 8 bolts. cruxy through the first bolt, and over the roof, and at the top….

Goat Butter

A grand voyage through the vast slabs of the Goatskin wall, the long smooth face visible from Hagensborg. All bolts, mostly easy terrain, some short 5.9 sections. 11 pitches, double 60m ropes will get you up and down.

Approach as for Enso Pool and then continue up-valley for about 1km, slowly leaving the creek behind as you angle uphill towards the still-hidden wall. A flagged line will lead right and up through open timber (between 2 slide zones; avoid the bushwacking and stick to the open timber) towards the base of the wall. The route starts directly left of a semi-permanent water feature running down the entire wall.

Follow the bolted line through gorgeous yellowish-white granite for 9 pitches to a spacious ledge near the top of the wall, where the water seep spills out from. Continue up the wall above, then trend left for an easy pitch, to the final pitch up a narrow ramp through the final little headwall guarding the top of the wall. Final anchors are ~10m from treeline, easy climbing takes you to the top and tree belay.

Runout on easy sections, protection where you need it, 2-7 bolts per pitch, 12 quickdraws will suffice if you're climbing in single pitches, double that for simul-climbing scenarios.

Walkoff is possible yet unmarked. Rap rings at every station.

A friendly route up a unique wall in an extraordinary position.

2021 Grant McCartney, Devon Girard, Liam McNaughton

Mosquito Pass

Note: The new Nusatsum Meadows trail replaces this route
Gain the alpine south of Nusatsum Mtn via efficient route; an excellent basecamp for further adventures.

Nusatsum Meadows (Mosquito Pass)

This new hiking route replaces the old 'Frank Cook Route' to the Mosquito Pass area for accessing the amazing meadows overlooking Nusatsum Peak. Lots of exploration opportunities exist from this area including hiking up the ridge below Space Point Peak to overlook Mt Saugstad and the mountains lining the Nusatsum River, travelling to Monster Pass and the upper Noomst Valley, or traversing under Space Point into the Dog Valley. Mountaineering objectives abound this area including Space Point Peak, the many summits of Nusatsum Mountain, Mad Dog, and from Monster Pass, Defiance and Happy Dome. Lots of ski touring opportunities exist up here for the winter adventurers also

Time: 4-5 hours 1-way
Distance: 6km
Elevation Gain: 1200m

Trailhead Access: Drive the 2WD Nusatsum East FSR staying right at the Medby Rock fork early on and look for an obvious left fork leading uphill at ~3km. Some vehicle clearance recommended, most SUV's will be fine. Follow this switchbacking road as it ascends for 1.4km and its end. Near the end an obvious cairn marks the trailhead. Drive past the cairn for a turnaround spot and extra parking towards the end of the road. Room exists for 6-8 vehicles and more parking exists at the last switchback, with only a short walk to trailhead.

Trail Description: Follow the well flagged and fully cut (2021) trail through ascending switchbacks. A nice lookout over a talus field exists at 950m 1.6km in. The next 1.2km of trail continues to ascend through the forest but involves sections of steep side hilling. Sturdy boots and hiking pole recommended until the trail receives more work. Caution: If the ground is frozen in late fall or winter this section can be dangerous. The mountain slope eventually eases and you will continue traversing towards the creek and descend a short distance to reach a prominent avalanche path. Cross this avalanche path and look for where the trail re-enters the woods. Follow this to a beautiful cascade and onward to a log crossing of Mosquito Creek. The log crossing is easy over little water. The trail then ascends for 350m distance through shrubby forests before opening into beautiful heather meadows. Follow the flagged route through the gentle meadows for another 1.5km, eventually reaching a prominent creek, follow that creek up to the full alpine!

Camping: the flagged route leads to a beautiful flat ridgetop with amazing vistas and nice tent spots near the creek. The windy ridge keeps any bugs at bay. Please practice Leave No Trace camping and dig poop cat-holes to the north of the ridge (facing Mosquito Pass's wetlands) and away from the water source to the south.

Wildlife: The Mosquito Pass area is a prominent corridor for wildlife including black bear, grizzly, mule deer, wolverine and more. A resident herd of mountain goats occupy the area also. Please be bear aware and respectful of wildlife.

Ski Touring : For ski touring access, upon reaching the avalanche path at km 3.6 climb to the top of the path before crossing the creek in a spot similar to summer travel. Then continue upstream and east into the Mosquito Pass proper. Running water usually exists in the pass if you search for it.

Space Point Lake: Space Point Lake is a gorgeous overnight camping destination or easy jaunt from the trail summit camp. From the camp spot at the height of the flagged trail route (1650m) traverse along beautiful meadow benches heading east along the headwaters of the Cacaotin valley for 3km before reaching the obvious lake with floating glacier. Total distance is 3km +150m -200m from trail summit.

Monster Pass: For the adventurous, Monster Pass provides amazing vistas and continued exploration of the upper Noomst. Monster Peak is also a must do with mind boggling vistas. From Space point lake cross the creek from the lake outflow and follow it into meadows at the head of the Cacaotin Valley. Once the meadows end and become too wet, continue through the forest without climbing too much for 2km. Here ascend up and climbers left before reaching talus slope of an obvious avalanche path continue uphill climbing ~500m to reach the pass. Total distance is 3.6km and +500m from Space Point Lake

Nusatsum Shoulder: The Nusatsum shoulder is maybe not a first choice but a very worthwhile destination nonetheless due to the incredible views of Space Point Peak, Happy Dome, Mad Dog, Mt Saugstad and many more. From the trail summit, contour a bit before descending into the height of Mosquito Pass. Cross delicate wetlands gently before ascending through brushy forests for 300m meter to reach nice alpine walking. Use this approach to access climbs on Nusatsum Mountain. Total distance is 3.7km +400m

Mills Creek - Enso Pool

Follow Saloompt Bluffs trail to viewpoint, then continue West on ledges and through timber to Mills Creek, arriving at an enchanting pool.

Trail is well flagged and cut.

Tatsquan/Fougner - Clayton Approach (working title)

Approach of Tatsquan/Fougner mountain (not sure of Nuxalk name yet) from Clayton Creek FSR. The route follows a nice shoulder along a dry Douglas Fir timber type with great views of the North Bentinck through the trees almost the entire way. Currently the flagging stops at a very nice lookout over the North Bentinck arm at about 1050m elevation. As the mountain's profile suggests from the ground, this route is quite steep and the flagging is quite "efficient" (ie. very little switching back).

There is ample parking on a small landing just after the steep part at the beginning of Clayton FSR (near the BC Hydro penstock area) and the route has been flagged to avoid the private property to which it is adjacent.

The intent is to finish this route summer 2021 flagged/marked to the summit, and have it linked up the "Tatsquan West" trail to form an alpine loop easily doable in one day.

***Sorry, only one random pic, I will take more next time!***

Last updated: June 9, 2021


many bugs. please fix. thx.

Ganesha's Game

An exciting and varied climb up the tiered right side of the eastmost wall of the bluffs. Each pitch adds to the adventure; even the first pitch on it's own is a satisfying climb gaining a fine position. A mix of fun cracks and thin face climbing. Pitch 2 and 3 include some hard friction sections; choose a cool day or wait for afternoon shade! This is the first line on the first wall when approaching via Lower Bluffs trail.

3 Pitches: 5.9, 5.11a +1pa, 5.11b. Rap rings at every belay. 70m rope recommended for first pitch. Double 60m ropes will get you down.

Pitch 1 - Start up a thin flake on the far right of the wall, to a bolted face, and finally up a splendid hand crack to a belay stance above a small cedar tree. 65m 5.9
Pitch 2 - Continue up an easy right trending ramp, past some gear in an undercling to the first bolt. A couple hard moves lead to more thin moves, moving up and right to gain a faint arete. Climb the prow and thin ground above with difficulty to the last bolt, and use it for a short pendulum into the prominent flake. Jam the friendly flake up to a belay ledge. 60m 5.11a +1pa
Pitch 3 - The difficulties begin immediately, mantling onto the starting ledge and first bolt. Continue up through thin friction and face climbing past 10 bolts, to a faint exit crack trending left (small TCUs), past a final bolt to belay. 40m 5.11b

Gear to 2", with doubles in 0.75-1" range. 14 quickdraws at least.

Approach via Lower Bluffs trail:

Devon Girard, Erin Nevison, Ryan Levesque, Kate McGiverney

Devon Girard's picture

Saloompt Bluffs

A steep start leads to moderate hiking through old growth, rising gently to a fork in the trail. The Upper Bluffs trail continues upwards past many waterfalls to a series of viewpoints overlooking Hagensborg and the surrounding mountains. The Lower Bluffs trail leads to the base of the climbing walls.

Trail is cut and well flagged; the Upper Bluffs trail gets more traffic, is quite tracked in and easy to follow. Water sources are plentiful for much of the year, yet tend to dry out in high summer.

Devon Girard's picture

Bodhi Tree Lookout

From the ice rink follow flagged trail up switchbacks to some stairs. Follow the Nuxalk Peak trail (sign just after the crag), head West past 2 slides/waterfalls to a junction. Follow the Bodhi Tree trail up (rather than traversing West on Crystal Creek trail), until intersecting the main buttress before the deep ravine feature that dominates this Northern aspect of the mountain. Hike steeply up zig-zagging ledges to an excellent view of the valley and inlet - Dog Ledge. To continue to the Bodhi Tree, continue up past a few minor fixed lines and many great views of the valley, to the mini-summit about half-way up the face. This is actually the lower half of the Snootli descent trail.

Silk Road - Khyber Pass

A significant variation of Silk Road, leaving the original line midway thru pitch 5, adding 8 new pitches, and finishing on the same anchors. A good alternative if the black roof pitch on Silk Road is wet. Sustained 5.10 climbing with a 5.11+ crux pitch. All belays have bolted rap rings. 60m ropes will get you down, but 70m recommended for leading. 13 long pitches, almost all with some challenging sections. Some runouts, protection where you need it. Bring double rack to 2", including small wires, with a strong collection of small cams; recommended 4x Metolious #1, 2x #0, and even a #00 for luck. Devon Girard, Grant McCartney, Pete Wainwright, Kelsey Mostertman - 2020.

Approach: Follow Saloompt Bluffs trail for about 45 minutes (approx 15 min past the lower-bluffs trail junction), then follow a flagged line directly upwards through steep timber to the base of the large wall. Approximately 90 minutes.

Descent: Continue through alpine terrain to gain the ridge, then descend the Goat Ridge trail to rejoin the Saloompt Bluffs trail. Or, rap the route.

Pitch 1 - A hard start past a single bolt gains a short thin seam; hard climbing past tiny gear for a few moves leads to easier cracks and a friendly slab, gain a small belay ledge. 5.10+
Pitch 2 - Climb right from the belay past a single bolt, then up through zig-zagging cracks with sections of face climbing, as you finally trend right onto the main wall of the 'Teapot' feature, to a belay below a long thin crack splitting the face. Be mindful of rope drag; a long and interesting pitch. 5.10
Pitch 3 - Face climb past bolts to gain the partially bolted thin seam. Climb the shallow crack to a crux overlap, then up the remarkable flared groove through easing difficulties to the spacious Teapot ledge. A bit runout at the top. 5.10+
Pitch 4 - Start a few meters right of the belay, and traverse left to face climbing past bolts into a shallow corner above. Continue up left past a bolt, then gradually right past another bolt and through disconnected cracks to a small belay ledge. A long pitch. 5.10
Pitch 5 - Climb up edges past a couple bolts to hand cracks. Gain the large face via a narrow pillar; face climb past more bolts to the belay on top of a large flake. 5.10-
Pitch 6 - A delicate friction traverse leads to harder face climbing past 5 bolts, then veer right from the Silk Road line (original line goes left to the base of the large black roof) - friction climb past 4 bolts and some thin spots to a narrow foot ledge and belay. 5.10+
Pitch 7 - A few face friction moves past a bolt leads to the base of a long friendly flake; climb to the top of the flake, then up and left past another bolt through some thin climbing, to nice belay perch and anchors. 5.10+
Pitch 8 - Climb past 3 bolts (a bit runout) to gain a ledge and base of large corner; stem up the corner, passing 2 more bolts and some gear. Before reaching the top of the corner, exit left to a narrow belay ledge and anchors. 5.10+
Pitch 9 - Trending left, friction climb past 4 bolts to the top of a faint pillar feature, then through a thin crux past another bolt, then a bit more trickiness past a 6th bolt and some gear to gain a nice belay ledge beneath the looming headwall and crux cracks. 5.11-
Pitch 10 - Technical face moves right off the belay lead to the base of a steep, splitter finger crack. Climb the slightly overhanging wall; burly moves up positive fingerlocks to a no-hands rest; step left and continue up the splitter crack for a few more hard moves to easier ground. Faceclimb past 2 bolts to a spectacular belay perch and anchors. 5.11+
Pitch 11 - Climb left past a bolt into an attractive seam splitting the glacier-polished wall; continue up the friendly crack to a small ledge, then face climb past 2 bolts (5.10-) to easier ground and another bolt (or continue up the easy vegitated corner 5.8). Continue up and left of some greenery to a huge ledge and belay anchors. 5.10-
Pitch 12 - Climb easy ground trending generally leftwards, then up friendly handcracks to gain another huge ledge just left of some greenery, at the base of a compact, orange wall split by several cracks. Belay anchors at the base of a left-trending crack. 5.8
Pitch 13 - A stout lead after a long day; climb the left-leaning crack with difficulty to a hanging slab; step left to the juggy exit cracks and final anchor. Bouldery moves off the deck lead to good gear; bring double cams in 1-2" range. An excellent pitch and a fitting end to a grand day out (the pitch can be avoided to left or right, if conditions require). 5.10+

Spirit Walker

The classic line on Snootli, directly up the main prow. Excellent climbing in beautiful positions, culminating in a gloriously exposed headwall. Previously known as the somewhat runout Snootli Express, it has been fully retrobolted and is in fine form. 5.11, Ray Hawkes, ~1990.

Take the Snootli approach trail, directly up past the crag, to the base of a bolted slab.

Many pitches of fantastic face climbing take you to the very top of wall. Some runouts on the easier pitches, but well protected for the cruxes. Mostly bolted. Bring 20 quickdraws and a few small and medium cams.

Descent is via rappel, or Snootli descent trail (1 rappel from top of route to gain hike-able slabs and join trail to the west -

Update on variations (from Ray Hawkes): Red line is the original line with grades up to 5.11, Yellow line is the new completed addition with grades up to 5.10. Gear needed 13 draws and gear to #4 cams with multiple small to med. size cams. Blue line finish has been climbed with the left upper side comming in at 5.9 - All blue to be fixed. Great climbing and views.

Silk Road

A grand adventure up the 600m Chilcotin Wall, sustained 5.10 climbing with a 5.11- crux pitch. All belays have bolted rap rings. 60m ropes will get you down, but 70m recommended for leading. 12 long pitches, almost all with some challenging sections. Runout on some easier sections. Bring full rack to 3" including small wires, with doubles or triples of small cams (Esp. Metolious #1 and #0). Devon Girard, Grant McCartney - 2018.

Approach: Follow Saloompt Bluffs trail for about 45 minutes (approx 15 min past the lower-bluffs trail junction), then follow a flagged line directly upwards through steep timber to the base of the large wall.

Descent: Continue through alpine terrain to gain the ridge, then descend the Goat Ridge trail to rejoin the Saloompt Bluffs trail. Or, rap the route.

Pitch 1 - A hard start past a single bolt gains a short thin seam; hard climbing past tiny gear for a few moves leads to easier cracks and a friendly slab, gain a small belay ledge. 5.10+.
Pitch 2 - Climb right from the belay past a single bolt, then up through zig-zagging cracks with sections of face climbing, as you finally trend right onto the main wall of the 'Teapot' feature, to a belay below a long thin crack splitting the face. Be mindful of rope drag; a long and interesting pitch. 5.10
Pitch 3 - Face climb past bolts to gain the partially bolted thin seam. Climb the shallow crack to a crux overlap, then up the remarkable flared groove through easing difficulties to the spacious Teapot ledge. A bit runout at the top. 5.10+
Pitch 4 - Start a few meters right of the belay, and traverse left to face climbing past bolts into a shallow corner above. Continue up left past a bolt, then right through disconnected cracks to a small belay ledge. A long pitch. 5.10
Pitch 5 - Climb up edges past a bolt to hand cracks. Gain the large face via a narrow pillar; face climb past more bolts to the belay on top of a large flake. 5.10-
Pitch 6 - A delicate friction traverse leads to harder face climbing past many bolts. 5.10+
Pitch 7 - Climb the long arching corner crack to an undercling traverse, then up right to a belay stance. Keep an eye out for small gear placements in the lower section. 5.9
Pitch 8 - Face climb past several bolts, gaining a shallow corner at the base of the huge arch that leads to the black roof. Keep an eye out for small gear placements at the base of the corner. 5.10
Pitch 9 - Climb the easy but runout corner, gaining easier ground and gear, then traversing left under the looming black roof. Watch for small gear placements under the roof, underclinging or descending lower onto the slab ramp below as necessary. Turn the corner of the roof and follow steep flakes past a bolt to a steep pocketed corner. Be mindful of ropedrag around the corner. A long and dramatic pitch requiring many small cams. 5.11
Pitch 10 - Climb the long corner to a belay stance below a short headwall. 5.9
Pitch 11 - Climb the headwall past one bolt to a small pond; circle to the right of the pond to a slab ramp past 2 more bolts to a left-trending seam and belay. 5.10
Pitch 12 - Climb past several bolts to an overlap and gear; continue up the face past another bolt to the base of water-worn crack features. Climb the grooves past some gear and a bolt; overcome a bulge to easier cracks. Traverse right on a hanging slab, to the final (overhanging!) exit cracks and final belay. Be mindful of ropedrag. 5.10

Snootli Peak via Snooka Lakes

An alpine ridge tour de force. All-day on a summit. Miles of ridge-walking, with some short technical sections and some sections of loose/rotten rock. Some parties may want to bring a rope and light rack for short sections.

Note: Exiting the Snooka Lakes bowl depends on snowpack levels; in low snow conditions, start from the upper of the three Snooka lakes (, head to the south end of the lake, then up not-so-pleasant looking dirt and scree slopes until gaining a south-trending series of clean granite ramps. The dirt slopes are not as bad as they look, and the granite ramps are excellent and make for fast travel. Continue up the ramps until the ridge.

Continue on this ridge more or less the rest of the way, over several intermediate peaks, to Snootli peak itself.

A grand day out.

Open Sourcery

A 15-pitch adventure up the grand NW face, starting up the giant dihedral between the starts of Spirit Walker and Snakes n Ladders, and topping out above the large upper tree island near the top of the wall. It is also possible to exit left after pitch 13, and gain the same upper helm feature as Spirit Walker (just from the right). Mix of gear and bolts. Double rack to 2" and something for 3", 12-16 draws. Bring some small wires for the occasional key placement. All stations have bolted rap rings. Pitches up to 60m.

Pitch 1 - 5.10- (or 5.5 bypass): From gear belay at base of waterfall, climb the face and thin cracks directly above to the base of the main dihedral. Alternately, or when main face is wet, bypass to the right on easy but runout friction.
Pitch 2 - 5.9: Climb the dihedral with glorious laybacking, stemming, jamming and more to anchors halfway up the corner system.
Pitch 3 - 5.10+: Continue up the corner for a few meters before breaking left around the arete on an obvious ramp. Continue face climbing near the arete past a bolt and to the right of a roof feature. Step left and reach around, bypassing the roof using hand cracks. A few more crack moves gains easy ledges and anchors.
Pitch 4 - 5.10+: Face climbing past a few bolts to a small seam, some small pro, and anchors.
Pitch 5 - 5.10-: Gain a left-leaning face crack to easier ledges; scramble up easy ground to the right to anchors.
Pitch 6 - 5.10-: Face climb to the right of a thin seam past a few bolts; rejoin the seam for a few moves and another bolt, then traverse right to the top of a large flake and anchors.
Pitch 7 - 5.10: Face climb left past bolts to a large half-moon feature; easy climbing within the moon feature to gain a belay on the left edge.
Pitch 8 - 5.10: Exit the half-moon left past a bolt; climb the mix of friction and flake past several more bolts to a belay immediately left of the large diagonal vegetated streak that clefts Snootli's NW face.
Pitch 9 - 5.10: Cross the diagonal fault and gain the right-hand wall with some difficulty. Face climb past several sets of bolts; some harder climbing punctuated by easy sections.
Pitch 10 - 5.10+: A gem of a pitch, up a steep flake right off the belay and then face climbing past bolts zigzagging through large dish features.
Pitch 11 - 5.10: Friction traverse left past a bolt, then face climb up to a slabby ledge; traverse left past 2 more bolts to an airy belay below the looming pillar and crack system.
Pitch 12 - 5.10+: Climb the widening crack up the headwall past a couple bolts and much gear. Turn the lip and friction climb to a beautiful belay stance.
Pitch 12.5 - 5.5: Climb 20m over very easy ground to anchors at the base of a steep rolling slab.
Pitch 13 - 5.10: Climb the shut seam, scrounging for small gear, to a pair of bolts trending right - a bit runout. Continue up to a relic 1/4" bolt with handmade hanger; clip it for good luck and then choose whether to exit left to the Spirit Walker anchors or continue right past another bolt to anchors below a water groove.
Pitch 14 - 5.6: Climb the runout but very easy and asthetic water groove, trending right.
Pitch 15 - 5.6: Drift right along several easy grooves, then up a short watercourse of sorts to a wide slabby alcove at the base of a wall to the left. Final anchors on the left edge of this wall.

Explore the upper slabs or exit directly right, into the trees and down the descent trail. Or rap the route.

Route was a collaboration of many over the years; pitches added or first climbed by Grant McCartney, Steve Hodgeson, Rob Nelson, Pat Moser, Peter Wainwright, Devon Girard. And as the 1/4" bolt indicates, someone had been up a similar line decades ago.

Saloompt Peak

Elegant natural line up a timbered West rib of the Saloompt massif, gaining the alpine ridge just before the summit ridge steeply rises up to the south.

Park where space allows by the junction at the top of the Lost Lake road hill; follow the right fork (towards Lost Lake) on foot for about 500m to an overgrown logging road on the left; push through the alder-overwhelmed road for another few hundred meters to a small scree slope; avoid this to the left, enter the old-growth timber and follow a flagged route up through mossy douglas fir, hemlock and cedar forest. Gain a broad bench after several hundred vertical meters, with large talus fields coming into view above. Avoid the talus fields to the left, following steep game trails to easier ground. Continue through open forest up a gentle hogs-back feature all the way to the subalpine. Pick your way through the scrub forest until breaking through into open heather strips. Follow the open meadows left towards a small boulder field, then up and right to the base of a scree slope. Edge around the right side of the scree slope, overcome a small thicket of stunted balsam firs, to gain the final rock and moss rib leading up to the saddle of the main ridge, and views to the east.

For Saloompt peak, head south up green gullies splitting the steep granite slab for about 100 vertical meters, to easier ground and a gorgeous swimming hole. Continue south along the easy granite summit ridge, enjoying tremendous views and many points of interest.

For Hagens peak and related objectives, head north along the friendly ridge, past several small tarns, a beautiful large flat 'delta' area riddled with flowers, creeks and aquamarine stones.


The ridge is amazing! Check out the great swimming hole just north of the south summit!
Sandy M Van Horn's picture

Definitely amazing, but really not easy on a bike!

Eastern Medicine

Multipitch up the ~750m Snootli East face. Many excellent pitches on fine rock, some runouts on easier ground but well protected where you need it. First 1/4 is almost a route on its own, gaining a 200m pillar feature in 4 long and substaintial pitches. Difficulty eases after that for the majority of the route, with a nice sting in the tail on the final pitch. Bring 70m lead rope for climbing. 60m ropes will get you down. Double rack to 2", triples or quadruples of small sizes (Metolius #0 and #1), small wires. 3" gear useful but not required. FA 2020 Devon Girard, Grant McCartney, Peter Wainswright.

Approach as for the East Walls:

Descend via either Snootli Descent trail or Crystal Creek trail:

Pitch 1 - 5.10+ 2pa: Choose from one of several belay spots at the base of the East face; about 10m of easy climbing gains a small ledge and the first series of bolts. Climb meandering edges and small flake features past bolts and some small gear placements, until the final pair of aid bolts below the anchors. 60m
Pitch 2 - 5.11:Trend right from the belay past 2 bolts, some small gear and a cruxy transition from thin cracks to easy face climbing. Continue up an easy corner feature to another bolt protecting some thin face moves to gain a large ledge and friendly offwidth corner. Continue to the top of the wide corner and pull a few easy face moves to the belay. 60m.
Pitch 3 - 5.11: Climb friendly edges past 4 bolts to the base of a large looming column; traverse left and around the arete of the pillar to gain a thin crack system. Climb the well protected thin cracks in spectacular position to an exposed belay midway up the pillar. Be mindful of ropedrag on the traverse; long slings on the final bolt before and first piece after crossing the arete is recommended. An epic pitch. 60m+.
Pitch 4 - 5.11-: Continue up thin cracks and one bolt in exposed position to the top of the pillar. Well protected, exciting climbing. 55m.
Pitch 5 - 5.10-: Traverse right directly off the belay, leaving the pillar for the righthand face. Climb past 2 bolts to an undercling feature, more face climbing, a glorious large hand crack, another face traverse past a bolt, and then a friendly exit crack to anchors. 60m.
Pitch 6 - 5.9: Climb up through some broken yet clean and fun terrain. Gear where it's needed. Anchors directly below a large patch of cedar vegitation. 50m.
Pitch 7 - 5.8: A very short pitch up and towards the right. Climb an easy flake and then face to anchors. 20m.
Pitch 8 - 5.10+: Start up a clean shallow groove, transitioning to face climbing past a bolt, then out left towards a large roof feature via a friendly flake and good footholds. Overcome the roof to the left; some thin face moves past 2 bolts lead to an easier finger crack and slab. Trend right for anchors. 50m.
Pitch 9 - 5.9: A grand pitch of beautiful features. Trend right across clean slabs, up some easy flakes up into a slippery corner, then zigzag up the fractures white wall via friendly finger and hand cracks. Wide at the end but always easy. 60m.
Pitch 10 - 5.9: Easy face climbing past 5 bolts, exiting left from the belay ledge and wrapping back right to anchors at the base of a left-trending crack up a blank wall. 50m.
Pitch 11 - 5.10+ 1pa: Hard slab moves (11+? or pull past a bolt) to gain a long layback crack feature splitting an otherwise blank wall. Good gear and rests punctuated with thin and delicate sections. Clambour onto the right-hand slab as the seam pinches off, then easy faceclimbing to anchors. 50m.
Pitch 12 - 5.10-: Easy faceclimbing past a couple bolts leads to a thin corner, then more easy faceclimbing trending right, to anchors at the top of a column and below a large clean corner. 60m+.
Pitch 13 - 5.10: Easy slab leading to thin face cracks in the large asthetic bay framed by the corner and looming roof. Thin wires and a bolt before the roof, which is overcome with a reachy move to good finger locks, gear, and a right highstep and rockover. 50m.
Pitch 14 - 5.7: Easy climbing up a thin seam, delicately negotiating an often-wet spot trending left, then more easy slab to anchors at the base of a long thin seam. 60m.
Pitch 15 - 5.6: Easy slab climbing trending left gains a wide crack system. Follow this to the base of the final pillar. 60m.
Pitch 16 - 5.11-: Climb the impressive pillar, starting just right of the belay. Some hard layback moves past 2 bolts, followed by a wild entry left into an easier crack. Continue past a couple delicate moves to easier ground, another bolt and an often-wet topout before greenery, and the final anchors just left. 50m.

From the final anchors, continue up 100 vertical meters through the scrub alpine forest following a faint path (look for chainsaw marks, limbed trees, some flagging etc) to gain the alpine proper. Recommended descent is via Crystal Creek trail: approx. 3 hours to parking lot from summit. Or rap the route.

Tips Hotline

A three pitch all-gear route up the left edge of the broken-glass wall. 2nd pitch is a 65m tips-layback endurance challenge; clean rock, lots of pro, spicy cruxes and good rests. Bring 70m rope, and an extra 60m to get down. Bolted rap stations. Many small cams required (esp. Metolius #0 and #1 range).

Pitch 1 - 5.9 layback flake (an existing route, name unknown). A gem of a pitch, and a fun treat to start the day. Clambour up a blocky corner to the base of a left trending flake; layback the flake to the tree island, then continue through the brush to the Pitch 2 anchors at the bottom of the next wall. Gear to 3".
Pitch 2 - 5.11 (?) tips layback. Follow the steepening corner crack for ~15m until it branches right into a thin crack feature splitting the blank headwall. Overcome the steep crux to a good rest, then continue through another 30-40m of tips laybacking. A physically and mentally demanding pitch. Bring many small cams and some nuts.
Pitch 3 - 5.10+ layback funkjam. Climb steeply through overlapping flakes to the top of a small pedestal and an old stunted pine tree. Mantle up into the groove above, and continue up a mix of flakes and cracks to easier ground. Enjoy the final face moves to gain the upper slab and anchors.

Devon Girard's picture

Nuxalk Mountain Circuit

Alpine tour de force, an incredible circuit linking Nuxalk ridge and the Snootli descent trail with the Snooka lakes.

Nuxalk Mtn is more technical from the North, so climbing up from Nuxalk Ridge and descending via Snooka lakes is recommended. Technical difficulty will vary with conditions, there are a couple brief sections of 4th class scrambling between the North and South Nuxalk summits, where some parties may wish to use a rope. The descent via Snooka lakes trail involves some route-finding and can be a bit rough/bushy in places. Allow 16 hours for the complete circuit.


Devon Girard's picture

I wonder if this can be done in a day - or whether an overnight somewhere would be more reasonable?

15 hours from the ice rink to Snooka trailhead!

Snooka Lakes

A complex approach up and through a series of timber ribs, slides and talus fields, leading to an incredible alpine bowl with 3 breathtaking turquoise lakes.

A great basecamp within striking distance of other objectives; ridge walking, alpine climbing, goat viewing... and just generally exploring!

Trail is currently in rough condition. Some flagging, better towards the bottom.

4 Mile Ridge via Saloompt Bluffs

An elegant and efficient route linking Saloompt Bluffs with the incredible alpine ridge of 4 Mile Mountain, via the Mills Creek basin. The trail is well marked and cut, with many points of interest along the way.

Follow the upper Saloompt Bluffs trail to the lookout, then continue West along the same timber bench, climbing through a short and memorable 'rock tunnel' feature to gain a connecting timber bench with excellent views of the Bella Coola Valley and Mills Creek basin. Continue along the bench past a couple seasonal creeks all the way to a beautiful pool and fjord at Mills Creek. Cross the creek and continue through open timber to gain the East shoulder of 4 Mile; follow the timbered ridge upwards to the base of a short headwall; traverse below the headwall to gain a steep timbered ravine directly left of the wall. Climb up the ravine feature into the bluffy alpine of 4 Mile Ridge. Continue as desired West along the ridge, past many views and interesting features.

Goat Ridge via Saloompt Bluffs

Gain the striking alpine ridge leading to Goat Peak via Saloompt Bluffs.

Follow the fairly well established upper Saloompt Bluffs trail to the main lookout; continue west briefly then north and up past orange flagging through several tree terraces, into a distinct pinch point in a steep timbered slot; move upwards to easier ground and open granite slabs. Follow flagging up several slabs and timber ribbons to a small watercourse; follow the water to the base of more slabs and clear views of the alpine. Gain a blunt buttress feature and move upwards along the general prow of it, traversing off to the left or right as needed. After gaining the top of this granite slab/prow feature, alpine meadow strips open to your left below clean granite walls. Continue up through open ground, meadows giving way to rock slabs, to a final treed gully to the right of the attractive and massive summit block.

Goat ridge opens to the north-west.

Note - above 1000m there are several long granite slab sections that are easy to walk on in dry conditions, however parallel vegetated gullies offer an alternative in poor/wet conditions. The general route is the same.

Nuxalk Ridge via Crystal Creek

A steep and adventurous hiking route up to the alpine of Nuxalk ridge with many points of interest. Start from the ice rink, traverse below granite walls to the deep ravine of Crystal Creek. Crossing the creek, head up through the canyon before continuing steeply through burnt timber bands, weaving through small rock bluffs, gradually moving right towards the highest notable stand of timber. Follow ledge systems and gain the first summit from the West, traversing it Eastward before continuing up through steep old growth mountain hemlock to the alpine.

Tatsquan Ridge

A beautiful hike through steep timber from downtown up into the alpine. Either climb the '100 stairs' to the reservoir, immediately turn left towards the creek, and follow a well-tracked steep trail upwards to briefly join a logging road; OR follow same logging road up switchbacks right from the highway. Both starts will bring you to the beginning of the Tatsquan Ridge route, marked with flagging and a sign. Enter the forest following a well-flagged route. Continue steeply through timbered benches past a couple viewpoints (380m and 970m) and a seasonal water hole (750m), through open, old-growth timber, all the way into the alpine of Tatsquan ridge and beyond. A sustained and enjoyable hike with many points of interest.

Note: there is NO running water along the trail in dry conditions; bring enough water to enjoy the day! There is standing water in many alpine tarns throughout the summer.

The route is cut and flagged.

Snootli East Walls

Approach route for the wild Eastern walls of Snootli. Flagged and mostly cleared.

Goldilocks Crag

Traverse the base of the Snootli crag, continuing East and up for ~10 minutes to an attractive wall with several crack lines. Easy toproping setups for every line via 4 sets of anchors.

A good place to learn gear climbing.

From right-to-left:

1) Jimminy Cricket - 5.9 - climb a thin crack to a junction with Frog Prince; continue up the right-hand slab to a juggy flake. Small cams and nuts, 1 bolt.
2) Frog Prince - 5.8 - climb the left-leaning finger crack to a slab finish, small cams and nuts.
3) Rapunzel - 5.11 - boulder the slab crux right off the ground, gaining an easier crack to a slab finish. Small cams and nuts.
4) Goldilocks - 5.10 - an easy crack start leads to thin climbing through unique water-groove features; easier face climbing to the top. A couple small cams with 4 bolts protecting the cruxes.
5) Tinkerbell - 5.11+ - slab to disappearing-crack to hard face climbing; fun crux face moves overcoming the slight bulge mid-route, riddled with subtle dyke features; easier slab moves to the top. 4 bolts plus a couple small pieces.
6) Captain Hook - 5.12? - hard face climbing just left of Tinkerbell. Toprope project.
7) Bean Stalker - 5.11+ - fun and varied climbing up a series of cracks and face features; a hard lower crux above good gear, with some finesse sequences up higher. Many small wires, small cams, and one medium piece.
8) Quasimodo - 5.11 - keep the good times going with this long and varied climb! Climb the crux of Bean Stalker, then traverse left on good holds to gain a beautiful double-crack that takes you all the way to the anchors. Fun moves on decent holds. Bring a range of small cams and some wires.
9) Kung-fu Panda - 5.11 - exciting and sustained climbing up a striking crack at the left edge (tallest part) of the wall. Short boulder problems with good rests and gear where you need it. Gear to 2" - and remember small wires for the top.
10) Quetzalcoatl - 5.12? - dramatic line up the arete on the far left of the wall. Hard face climbing past 6 bolts, to larger holds in a spectacular position. 8 bolts plus a couple small cams for the mid-section. Open project.

Snootli Crag

A short crag with an easy approach; 15 min hike from the ice rink, easy toproping, good for quick sessions and beginner intros. All routes require at least some gear to lead; there are no pure sport routes. Many routes are partially bolted, to complement the natural protection. All routes have bolted anchors at the top of the wall.

Lower wall:

1) 5.11 - Separation Anxiety: Start up a short pillar to avoid an often-wet crack; face-climb past a bolt to gain a pumpy flake and good gear, then overcome the bulge by reaching right. Continue up the finger crack until it pinches shut; reach for the slopey rail and good jams in a horizontal crack; a few more easy moves to the anchors. Bring at least 3 small cams (Metolious #1 or equiv) for the flake and upper crack.

2) 5.12? - Stiff Upper Lip: open project.

3) 5.10c - Sweet Jesus: Possibly the best line on the crag, steep and exciting climbing up good holds and through a range of crack sizes. Face-climb to a juggy flake, past a slopey rail into a finger crack. Overcome the crux bulge into saviour hand-jams and easy slabs up to the anchors. Bring gear to 2".

4) 5.13? - Hard: open project.

5) 5.12? - PSI: hard flared finger crack, 2 bolts at start. Open project.

6) 5.10a - Cookie Monster: A fun face and flake climb disguised as a mossy groove; climbs much better than it looks. A delicate start past a bolt gains a juggy groove; layback and stem up to a slopey rail and a big move to a huge jug. Mantle up and continue up the face crack and past a bolt to the final slab moves and anchor. Gear to 2".

7) 5.11a - Houdini: Steep and fun face climbing past 4 bolts, gaining a shallow corner/box feature. Enter and exit the box with difficulty, continuing up a crack and slab to anchors. Bring a pair of cams (2" and 0.5") and a small wire for the top.

Upper wall:

1) 5.10b - Little Yosemite: A short but stout fist jamming clinic up a beautiful orange corner. Cams to 4" for the bottom, and a couple smaller pieces for the top.

2) 5.10a - Minuteman: Climb the short detached pillar to a hand-sized corner crack. Overcome a small roof and continue up the crack. Anchors up towards the right. Gear to 3".

3) 5.9 - Nukwlhan (Corner crack): A fun and feature-rich corner, harder towards the top before the anchors. Gear to 2".

4) 5.10a - GMO: An easy starting ramp leads into delicate underclinging and harder moves over a bulge. Head right to anchors. Gear to 1.5".

5) 5.9 - Nulhtnikta (Central pillar): Potentially fun climbing up a pillar-like feature. CAUTION - very dirty and loose at top since a tree-fall event! Evaluate before climbing.

Devon Girard's picture


Multipitch on the far right (west) face of Snootli. 4 pitches - 5.8/5.10b/5.11a/5.8. Devon Girard, Dale Mcreery, 2016. Mixed protection, bring small wires for pitch 3.

Start below a large, white flake; climb past 1 bolt and discontinuous cracks to a belay ledge below a friendly crack (5.8). Climb the friendly crack, traverse right and face climb past 3 bolts into the main corner system to a small belay ledge below a thin crack (5.10b). Climb past 1 bolt into a thin seam, slowly expanding into a finger crack before disappearing; face climb up and right past 3 bolts, navigating small roof features (5.10d). Finish up friendly flakes and cracks past a small roof, then head out right past 2 bolts to belay anchors at top of the wall (5.8) - sometimes wet.

Descend via Bodhi Tree


Devon Girard's picture

Pitch 3 is a gem!!

can't wait to get on it!


A fun 2-pitch route up the very wide slab below the upper Saloompt Bluffs trail. Approach as for the Upper Bluffs, and turn off the trail just before the traverse above the wall, to gain the ledge below the wall. Follow the base of the wall to some flagging that takes you to the starting ledge.

A 40m bolted slab brings you to a belay on Salamander ledge (which hosts other climbs as well - go explore) - 5.9. Exit off the ledge via the obvious 65m crack above; be sure to bring small cams (Metolious 0 and 00 or equiv.) for the bottom, pieces up to 2" for the rest, and a 70m rope to make sure you reach the top station; a fun and varied pitch, wet in early season, easier when dry - 5.9. From the 2nd belay, enter the forest and climb a few dozen meters up to gain the trail. 2019 - Devon Girard, Ryan Levesque, Kate McGiverny, Sage Gray.

A fine day out!

Devon Girard's picture

Groove Tube

Multipitch on the Gun Range wall. Alex Boileau, Jia Condon, ~2011.

Exciting and varied climbing, mostly in the mid-5.10 range. First few pitches are interesting face climbs, leading up to the unique water groove pitch. Every pitch on the route is interesting and worthwhile. Much more potential on this wall.

Mostly bolted, bring at least 23 quickdraws, and a small rack of cams (single set to 2" should be fine). Bolted stations with rap rings.

Approach via Saloompt Bluffs lower trail.

Big rock - Alhliiqwalh.

Big rock is a large glacially deposited boulder located on the North side of highway twenty in Tweedsmuir park. Also known as split rock following its splitting several years back, Alhliiqwalh has several climbing problems.

There's a V6 problem up the south-west corner, a fun dyno move on the East side, some fun climbing up the North-east corner, going either left or right, an interesting mantle type start problem on the North-west face, and of course, there's the crack to climb up and the tree.

Be aware that Alhliiqwalh is also an important landmark connected to Nuxalk history, and is linked to events going back several thousand years. There are also petroglyphs on the rock itself, which have been damaged in the past, though it is unclear whether this has been by climbers or by vandals. Efforts to clean up graffiti have been misguided as well, and the grey paint sprayed on the side of the rock may have done even more damage.

All this is to say, please think carefully before using the rock recreationally, be careful to do no damage, both out of respect and because damaging archaeological sites is a crime carrying significant penalties.

Snootli West Boulders - wa atl'sanks Anulhk'als

This series of boulders are on the upstream flank of Snootli Slab / Mount Noohalk (Anulhk'als). They can be reached from the skating rink parking lot: follow the trail behind to a small road, then continue on the trail immediately on the other side of the road rather than the Snootli descent trail that begins several metres to the right. Follow this trail up the hillside for ten minutes and eventually you will arrive at the boulders. At present, I've been calling the four boulders by the names of the four mountains going upvalley from Noohalk: Noohalk (or Snootli Slab), Schoolhouse, Noosatsum, and Tabletop, but I've been using their Nuxalk names: Anulhk'als (scraped wall), Snukulhikuus (with a high forehead), Nusq'alst (place of axe-stone), and Wapat (Sideways). I've added -ii to the end of each name.

The first boulder is a slabby problem, called Anulhk'alsii (scraped wall), Little Snootli slab. There are a number of fun ways to get to the top on every side, and a very good place to introduce people to slabs and footwork.

The trail splits just beyond the first boulder and goes down the hill. Just to the right of the trail is the second boulder, Snukulhikuusii, Little Schoolhouse Peak. There are again a number of ways to get up - a few different approaches from the right corner, as well as from the left. You'll need a pad for this, as there are some nasty rocks and stumps.

A minute down the trail, and down in the trees to the left is a massive boulder called Nusq'alstii - Little mount Noosatsum. Like the mountain, it is massive. You can climb up a tree on the downhill side, and top-rope the problem on the uphill side, or you can just go for it!

Another minute along the path the trail takes a sharp turn up the hill, and off to the left of the trail twenty or so yards is the final boulder, Wapatii - Little Tabletop. This is very much what it sounds like, a broad-faced boulder with a nice edge all around the top and a few nice places to put your feet. It's a mildly pumpy traverse and a good place to practice hanging with your feet!

Fifteen minute hike to the back boulder, though the trail continues further to function as a descent trail from the east wall of the mountain.

Pearl Wall

An attractive trail-side crag along the Snooti descent route, a few minutes before the Bodhi Tree lookout (

Pearl-white granite with 2 splitter cracks, and an incredible bolted arete face-climb. Rock quality is excellent, and the atmosphere is unique and airy, views all around, almost like an alpine crag. Well worth a visit, especially if on the way down from one of the multipitch routes on Snootli.

Approach time is 60-90 minutes from the parking lot.


A moderate 5-pitch gear climb on Snootli's west walls. Good climbing with good protection over interesting features with fine positions. Bring rack to 2", bolted belays. Devon Girard, Sandy Van Horn - 2016.

Start at the far left side of the west wall, at the base of an ivory white pillar with several attractive flakes. Climb the white flake system to easier ground and belay at the base of a compact triple-corner system (5.8). Climb the columns/cracks to easier ground and belay at the beginning of a large, low-angle open-book corner (5.9). Choose from a variety of corner (more vegetation) and face cracks (cleaner, less protection) until exiting the corner left to the obvious blunt arete via a series of flakes up the left-hand wall. Follow the arete up to a belay (5.9). Continue on up and slightly left over easy ground to belay near the base of smooth-sided corner (5.6). Finish up the enjoyable and friendly corner, past a few face moves to final belay (5.9).

Descend via Bodhi tree trail:

Snootli Descent Trail

Breathtaking views up an improbable line, crisscrossing the open north-west butress of Nuxalk Mountain, up narrow ledges with a few fixed lines.

Devon Girard's picture

Snakes 'n Ladders

Fantastic multipitch up the western wall of Snootli's main face. Bolted rap stations, mixed protection. Jia Condon 2009.


Multipitch on the far right (west) face of Snootli. 5 pitches - 5.9/5.10a/5.10d/5.10b/5.6 - Devon Girard, Rob Nelson, 2016. Mixed protection, bring many small wires and cams for pitch 3.

Climb the prominent white, crack-riddled pillar to a perfect belay ledge (5.9). Continue past 1 bolt and various cracks and flakes to the base of a long, thin seam up a sheer wall (5.10a). Climb the long seam until it shuts; continue left past 1 bolt, to another crack system, continue to belay ledge below the headwall - a long pitch (5.10d). Climb past 3 bolts and some small cam placements, traversing up and right to gain a large hanging corner; scramble right on easy ledges with a few moves to belay below final wall (5.10c). Climb easy cracks up final wall to the top (5.8).

Descend via Bodhi Tree

Redneck Raven

Tatsquan Traverse

Incredible natural circuit around the ridgeline of the Tatsquan watershed. Start and finish from downtown Bella Coola.

Schoolhouse Peak

An alpine walk thru the sky; beautiful terrain and great views of the Bella Coola valley.

Gain the Northwest ridge via the Hagensborg Loop Trail; leave the loop trail east of the quarry, up the right side of a creek and into timber, avoiding a cutblock to the right. Traverse gradually rightwards to the true ridge line, and then up a sometimes-faint but friendly trail up through interesting features, various stands of timber and broad ledges. Forage your way through the subalpine to a magnificent broad ledge at about 1600m. Continue slightly right of the north ridgeline through alpine boulder fields and bands of meadow. Depending on the snowpack, move upwards as seems reasonable through snowfields, ledges and gullies to the broad summit.

Medby Rock Lookout Trail

This trail leads to the site of an old forest fire lookout so you can bet the view is panoramic. The trail starts along the main logging road for about 300 m then veers left onto a branch road. Follow this for another 300m to the top of the hill and across the flats. Then follow ribbons to the right as a smaller road eventually turns into a trail near a small creek. The trail climbs steadily from here through second growth forest, some of which has been juvenile spaced. Eventually the trail enters an old growth forest with some large Douglas-fir. The trail veers left and then switches back and forth up to a cliff, along its base and then out on to the old forest fire lookout site. Only the cement footings remain as the building burnt down many years ago. Evidence of the telephone line can still be seen along the trail though. There is much to see from this spot named after a local painter, Carl Medby, who painted from here in the 30’s. There are excellent views of the lower Bella Coola valley looking west towards Hagensborg and Bella Coola\, north into the Saloompt River valley and south into the Nusatsum River valley.


Devon Girard's picture

Sweet viewpoint....

Goat Peak (Winter route)

Starting up the Saloompt Bluffs trail, continue north up the blunt ridge, through mixed slabs and tree islands until gaining the alpine.

Some short steep sections at beginning give way to gentle slopes.

Bella Coola Wharf to Big Cedar Tree Larso Bay

Mountain Bike from Bella Coola wharf over Clayton Pass and down the Big Cedar Tree Trail back to sea level and to Camp 2/Larso Bay. Our Trip took 7:25 hrs of riding over 38.6km which included 1338m of climbing. Sea level to 1278m and back down to Sea level!
The route follows the Clayton Falls FSR then hooks into The Big Cedar Tree Quad TRail just past Blue Jay Lakes. The last few Km are via the Camp 2 logging road. -


Kerry Phillips-Boileau's picture

Awesome Trip - Well worth the effort!! - Especially with a dip in the ocean and the hot springs afterwards!
Devon Girard's picture

is a boat-free scenario also reasonable? ie. bike back up from Larso...?

Hagensborg Loop Trail

This trail begins by following the Schoolhouse Mountain Falls trail to the west falls. At the point where the west falls trail heads up hill the loop trail veers westward slightly downhill to a ford crossing of the creek. If the water is too high this crossing may be difficult and you may need to return the way you came. Beyond the creek, the trail follows an old logging road. The mixed deciduous and coniferous forest here is second growth. This road carries on to the pit that was used to quarry granite for the highway and river diking material. Once at the quarry you can walk the road about 1km out to the highway and the bridge across Nooklikonnik Creek. Stop here for a fabulous view of Mount Saugstad to the south or during late July and early August stop here to watch the Chum or Dog salmon spawning. The rest of the loop is along the highway back to the school. Walk well off the road\, facing traffic.
Private land issues and Highway’s road to rock pit

Snootli Creek Regional Park

This trail system provides an interesting walk as it offers a variety of natural sights and historic features. The first trail branches off to the left to an ancient grove of culturally modified cedar trees. This area requires respect not only for the forest but also for the First Nations people that used this area for acquiring bark and lumber from these sacred and special ‘trees of life’. Look for the distinct scars left after planks were cut and split away from the living tree. This grove also features huge cottonwood, Sitka spruce and Douglas maple. Back to on the main trail, carry on past the cottonwood grove through second growth to the rodeo grounds, hike through the cottonwood grove or loop back along the beaver pond to the road and the parking area. A variety of water fowl can be seen at the pond and look for beaver gnawing signs on shoreline trees. These trails are for hiking or biking.
Potential for interpretive trail – CMT, old/new forest,

Grey Jay / Blue Jay North Bentinck Lookout

This trail and boardwalk wind through alpine forest along Grey Jay Lake and then wanders through open meadows and wetlands to end at a viewpoint overlooking North and South Bentinck Arms. It offers a nice afternoon stroll and on return there is the option for a refreshing swim in Blue Jay Lake. Views of the Coast Mountains are spectacular, although somewhat limited compared to the ridge above M Gurr Lake. Alpine flowers are abundant in the summer. Blue Jay Lake is much warmer than M Gurr Lake and, uniquely, this high elevation lake contains trout.

Odegaard Meadows Route

Easy route finding, follow the approximately 2km flagged route to the meadow and lakes above Odegaard Falls. The route heads up onto the ridge and into the alpine via the Odegaard Falls Recreation trail. Watch for the pink flagging on your right (East)


Is the start of the trail easy to find...?
Devon Girard's picture

if you download the KML file it is....

Glacier Creek Cow Trail

A kid friendly, single track trail that winds along the Bella Coola River. High bear use in area in bear season. Please be respectful of private property in the area.


I didn't see any cows....


Amazing ridge walk in the sky, to the iconic peak of Nusatsum.

Purgatory Lookout

This route offers spectacular alpine views as it winds between meadows, ponds, talus boulder slopes and snow avalanche brush tracts and is an ideal mountain bike excursion. Originally part of a road that connected all the way to South Bentinck Arm, it can still be driven in a 4X4 to the lookout, depending on the level of debris from the previous winter’s snow avalanches and roadside brush encroachment. The lookout is spectacular with a fabulous view of the Noeick River valley, Styx Mountain and Purgatory Glacier directly across the valley. It is possible to continue walking the old forest service road downhill for more views; however, the road is brushing in quickly. If you do make it downhill to the river, just remember it’s a long way back up to the vehicle. The Noeick River valley was washed out a few times by a jokulhlaup (a glacial phenomenon where the rising waters of Ape Lake broke through the receding Fyles Glacier ice dam, dumping a wall of water down the Noeick River valley and wiping forests and roads all the way to South Bentinck Arm).

Alex MacKenzie Heritage Grease Trail

Historic grease trail followed by explorer Alex MacKenzie.

Tweedsmuir Trail

This section of trail is part of a larger network of trails in Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. The trail beyond the lower lookout is not maintained and travel beyond is not recommended. The lower section, however, is a nice walk through a dominantly pine and Douglas-fir forest to a couple of vantage points above the Atnarko River Valley floor and Mosher Creek’s steep sidewalls. Look across the valley and check out the old slide. These large boulders tumbled down some time ago and now are beginning to establish a forest. Look further up valley to see the route to Hunlen Falls, Lonesome Lake and the Turner Lake Chain.

Kettle Pond

This is an interesting walk that begins along a medial glacial moraine consisting of ‘till’ and giant boulders which were left behind between two lobes of a glacier that retreated at the end of the ice age. The trail then meanders downhill to a unique glacial depression called a "kettle" pond. There are ancient Douglas-Firs\, orchids and water lilies to look for. The large boulder at the parking lot is an erratic left behind by the glacier. It split just a few years ago. If it’s cloudy down valley it just may be sunny up here.

Burnt Bridge Loop Trail

Segments of this trail are part of the ancient grease trail network and it was likely used by Sir Alexander Mackenzie on his historic expedition across Canada by Land in 1793 The viewpoint overlooks the beautiful Bella Coola Valley to the west. It is only a short 10-15 minute walk from the parking lot to the viewpoint. The trail then continues above Burnt Bridge Creek to a spectacular suspension bridge, loops back on west side back to the parking area. The trail has a great selection of tree types including Douglas-Fir, Cedar and Cottonwood. Watch for great views of Stupendous Mountain. This trail can be completed in 1-2 hours.

Capoose Summer Trail

The trail is part of the ancient network of ‘grease’ trails that climb onto the plateau above the valley and make their way into Tweedsmuir Park and join the Alexander Mackenzie / Heritage Grease Trail. This is a steep steady climb that passes through a number of different ecosystems (second growth, fire scarred old growth and higher up, subalpine and alpine). For a short hike of about one-half to one hour one way, you can get to a spectacular viewpoint looking east to Firvale and south to Glacier and Cacoohtin Creeks. Defiance Mountain is due south with its glacier shouldering the steep north face. Nusatsum Mountain is on the west. At the start of an old burn, the trail is overgrown and may be difficult to discern.

Odegaard Falls

The Odegaard Falls area in the Nusatsum valley is a must see attraction as it is in the heart of the Coast Mountain wilderness with its spectacular peaks and glaciers. The falls are very impressive, especially in early summer when it swells with snow melt. The trail to the falls passes through an old mossy forest of western hemlock, Sitka spruce and amabilis fir. You get the first view of the falls from the foot bridge crossing the Nusatsum River. There is a great viewpoint at the base of the falls that have a vertical drop of ~175m.

Should re-route trail to stay on west side of creek, enhance trail to top meadow.


Sandy M Van Horn's picture

One bridge is out and hikers are required to "shimmy" across a log.

Lost Lake Trail

This trail winds uphill through old growth forest to a small lake and great view spots looking over the valley and mountains to the south. The trail begins in second growth forest but quickly climbs up a rocky slope into a peaceful moss carpeted old growth Douglas fir forest. Lost Lake is quite small, but the views from the trail end are rewarding. The two lookouts here offer a great picture of the glaciated u-shaped valleys of the lower Bella Coola and Nusatsum Rivers. The first lookout is to the right of the lake and the second one is beyond the lake on a trail that leads slightly downhill. At the first lookout you can easily identify Hagensborg and the airport. Look a little closer and you may even see the Augsburg Church. At the second lookout\, the view to the south is the Nusatsum valley with its regenerated logging areas and the road to Odegaard Falls. In the foreground, Nusatsum Mountain is on the left and Schoolhouse Mountain on the right. Looking out over the Bella Coola River to the east, you can see the edge of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park beyond the small community of Firvale.

Saloompt Forest Trail

Very popular. This is an interpretive trail with unique forest features and valley bottom ecosystems. There are three different trails within this park. Each has its own special features. There is an ancient forest stand with massive Douglas-fir, cedar and spruce intermingled with hemlock, cottonwood, alder and maple. There are eagle nests, bear scratch trees, fast growing second growth forest, an old homestead site, springboard logging stumps and lots of lush temperate rainforest undergrowth. A side channel of the Bella Coola River flows along the south side of the park. Once back out to the road, walk to the bridge over the Salloomt River. This a great place to see salmon spawning during August and September.

Schoolhouse Mountain Falls

These trails offer a moderately strenuous uphill effort to the tall, cascading falls. The first part of the trail goes through a unique and interesting forest swamp ecosystem and the trail is elevated on a pleasant 250 m long boardwalk. The west falls trail veers right and the east falls trail goes to the left. The trails are identifiable by ribbon and use. At the end of both trails, are great views of the Hagensborg area, lower Bella Coola Valley, the massive granite faces on the opposite side of the valley, including Saloomt Peak and Salloompt River valley opposite right, Mill Creek opposite left and Four Mile Ridge above the airport. The east trail is somewhat steeper and cruder but the falls are more impressive than the west falls. You can edge out at the bottom of the falls and this is a great finish if you do want to carry on and scale the steep rock near the top of the falls. The West Falls trail is a mixed difficulty trail with easy sections and a steeper climb at the end. The falls at the end of the trail is a series of small cascades.
Private land issues.

Snooka Trail System

East Loop: This trail undulates through second growth forest and was developed for mountain biking but provides a pleasant shaded walk on a hot day.
The East loop takes off from the south loop and heads east on to private land and ends at Hwy 20. The trail is maintained by the property owner so please respect their goodwill by practicing courteous trail etiquette.

South Loop: A pleasant shaded walk on a hot day, this trail provides more vegetation variety than the East Trail as it starts in second growth forest then meanders to an old growth cedar stand. It crosses Snooka creek at a narrow bridge and then loops back to the parking area.

West Loop: The west trail features scenic views of Bella Coola and the Four Mile residential area, historic Tallheo Cannery and North Bentinck Arm. The viewpoint also looks down on Thorsen Creek and the site of the petroglyphs. The lower trail is an old road but cattle and horses use this area and the trail is therefore only for hiking.

Clayton Falls Rec Site

With a great shoreline picnic site and a viewing platform of the falls cascading through a canyon of cliffs scoured smooth by water and glacial action, the Clayton Falls Recreation Site is one of the most popular sights in the valley. Depending on the season or the current weather, the falls can be a full apron or narrow streamlets flowing through ancient grooves. Pink salmon spawn at the bottom of the falls between late July and September. Look for them attempting to jump up the falls. Salmon also use the spawning grounds created by B.C. Hydro below the outflow from the generating station. The park has picnic tables and outhouses. At low tide there is even a small stretch of sandy beach. Watch the boats coming and going and maybe even a sailboarder, yacht or ferry. Note the old cannery across North Bentinck Arm. Seals hang out at the mouth of the creek and from the bridge over the creek you can sometimes see seals chasing down salmon at high tide.

ATV parking at water tower and BC Hydro may put in off-loading ramp

M Gurr Lake

This is an easy access trail that winds through stunted sub-alpine forest to a crystal clear\, emerald jewel alpine lake. You may want to go for a quick swim, although the neighbouring pond east of the lake is warmer. Wildflowers are abundant and provide a colourful bloom in July and August. Beyond the lake the trail is not as distinct\, but still easy to follow. Once on the rocky part of the ridge\, pick your own way to the highest point. The viewpoint above the lake) provides awesome views of the coast mountain peaks rimming North and South Bentinck Arms, Burke Channel and the upper Clayton Falls Valley.